Contents
01) General Information
02) Driving Tips and Techniques
03) Vehicle Information and Modification
04) Trail Rating Guide
05) Required Equipment List
06) Recommended Equipment List
07) Section Closing
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01) General Information
A 4-wheel drive vehicle is not required to access many of the dirt roads, graded roads, and jeep trails during the dry season. During the wet season, a 2 wheel drive vehicle can be used for most tasks as long as you plan accordingly.
The Texas portion of the Chihuahuan high desert ranges in elevation from approximately 1900 feet to 5500 feet above sea level. The terrain includes bentonite flatlands, sand dunes, fractured shale, dry riverbeds, large boulders, frequent washouts and exposed rocks, and many plant and animal based obstacles. The temperature varies greatly during the year and depending on your location, as an example: I recorded a low of 37 degrees Fahrenheit at 1:27am and a high of 92 degrees Fahrenheit at 4:01 pm on March 21 2006. Your vehicle and you will be dealing with temperature and environmental changes that you may not have experienced in the past.
Preparation is key.
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02) Driving Tips and Techniques
When crossing ruts, drop-offs, etc:
1 ) Never try to cross anything with a drop-off wider than your tire length (drop-offs that completely remove your tire from the ground, etc)
2 ) always try to cross diagonally so that 3 tires are firmly planted at all times
3 ) if you have a 2wd vehicle and do not have a limited slip differential, you effectively have a 1wd vehicle, Keep this in mind when looking at #2 above
4 ) If you effectively have a 1wd vehicle, don't try to cross any ruts or drop-offs that will remove your drive tires from the ground
5 ) See link below on "getting unstuck"
6 ) Never try to cross running water unless you are experienced with that type of operation. A typical SUV with 6" or so of clearance, can easily be moved off of the road by 4" or so of fast moving water. While this isn’t necessarily dangerous, when dealing with dirt roads, you will be moved off of the road surface, thereby increasing your chances of being washed further downstream, or stranded, if lucky
7 ) When dealing with dirt roads and running water, remember that the water is murky, which makes it almost impossible to accurately determine the depth of the water
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03) Vehicle Information and Modifications
If you plan on keeping your vehicle in good shape during your visit to the desert, you will want to invest in some vehicle modifications. There are many modifications that can be purchased, fabricated, or picked up at junkyards that will extend the life of your vehicle when utilizing it
in harsh environments, and will add to your and your passengers overall safety.
Engine
Newer Fuel-Injected Vehicles:
No modification necessary, your car’s onboard computer should adjust your fuel injection system automatically.
Carburetor Based Vehicles:
You will want to have your carburetor tuned up if you plan on spending more than a few days in the high desert and are coming from a lower altitude.
Drive Train
2 Wheel Drive Vehicles:
If you do not have a limited slip or locked differential, you essentially have a 1 wheel drive vehicle. If you plan on utilizing paved roads for your entire trip, this will not pose a problem. If you plan on visiting land, taking the scenic route, and just generally exploring any roads you come across that are not paved, you may run into some issues.
The best thing I can recommend is investing in a limited slip differential, or an LSD add-on kit. While this is the best option, it is also the most expensive. For those of us on a budget, go to a carpet or flooring store and invest in 2 6 foot by 3 foot scraps of heavy carpeting. When you get stuck, place them in front of your drive tires, in mud and sand this will work very well. Try to avoid deep ruts and washouts if at all possible, if it is not possible, then use a shovel to fill them in or use good sized rocks to fill the area your tire will traverse.
4 Wheel Drive Vehicles:
You should not need to modify anything. The only thing I can suggest is: if you do not have locking hubs, you may want to invest in them. While not an essential modification, they prove very handy when traversing uphill washboards or large rutted areas.
Suspension
Low Clearance Vehicles:
For many roads a low clearance vehicle will work, but you must not care about loud bangs, jolts, etc. We have taken friends into the Solitario region who were driving a minivan, the only damage to speak of was a dented bumper and a lot of undercarriage scrapes. I recommend getting your shocks, springs, struts checked extensively, and invest in a good lift kit if one is made for your vehicle. For a budget fix, you can go to almost any auto parts store and invest in coil and leaf spring spacers that will add between 1 and 3 inches of total lift.
High Clearance Vehicles:
You should be fine, although I do recommend having your suspension system checked out before bringing it out.
Cooling System
All vehicles should have their cooling system checked, flushed, and refilled with a good quality antifreeze/coolant before coming out due to the extreme high and low temperatures that can happen.
Tires
All Vehicles:
Carry a jack (hi-lift or similar farm jack recommended), a can or two of fix-a-flat, and a tire plug kit.
Mainly On-Road Use:
Carry a spare, a full size spare is recommended, but a donut can work if you avoid off-roading.
Off-Road or Combined Use:
Carry a full-size spare, if you are in the market for new tires, a good set of dual purpose tires is recommended. Thin tires are good for cutting through the mud and hitting the dry land underneath. Wide tires are good for running/hydroplaning on top of the mud, grappling and climbing rocks/riverbanks, and are indispensable when dealing with sand. It all comes down to personal preference. I recommend hitting an off-road meet and doing some research on what best suits your intended usage.
Different Sized Front/Rear Tires:
Carry a full size spare for each tire size you use, failing that carry 2 full size spares for your smallest tire size, and failing that carry a full size spare for your smallest tire size.
Worst Case Scenario:
Carry a spare tire, and if you are in my area i can retrieve your spare tire, the blown tire, and transfer the spare to the old rim.
Body Modifications
Rock Sliders / Rock Rails:
Good for major off-roading, although they are un-needed if you have loads of clearance.
Brush Guard:
Highly recommended, it pays for itself the first time you drive into an area covered with greasewood (creosote), then drive back out without puncturing your radiator.
Off-Road / Auxiliary Driving Lights:
A very useful investment when driving back roads, jeep trails, or cross country. The added illumination will help you spot any obstacles in your path and will help other motorists spot you if you are coming towards them or if they require assistance.
Roll Bar / Roll Cage:
While not needed in most cases, this is very helpful if you plan on doing any major off-road activities.
Miscellaneous
Tow Strap:
You can use this in conjunction with your farm/hi-lift jack as a come-along/winch.
Winch:
Help others, help yourself. A winch is an invaluable tool, I use a cheap trailer hitch mounted 2000lb capacity winch in conjunction with my transmission to back out of really bad situations.
To sum things up, you basically want a good cooling system, as much clearance as possible, at least 2 wheel drive, a spare tire, and a good radiator protector.
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04) Trail Rating Guide
Rating Description
1) Graded dirt road. Dry, or less than 3" water crossing depth. Gentle grades. 2WD under all conditions except snow. No width problems, two vehicles wide.
2) Dirt road. Dry, or less than 3" water crossing depth. Some ruts. Slight grades, up to 10 degrees. 2WD under most conditions. Rain or snow may make 4WD necessary. Usually one and a half to two vehicles wide.
3) Dirt road. Rutted, washes, or gulches. Water crossings up to 6" depth. Passable mud. Grades up to 10 degrees. Small rocks or holes. 4WD recommended but 2WD possible under good conditions and with adequate ground clearance and skill. No width problems for any normal vehicle. Vehicle passing spots frequently available if less than two vehicles wide.
4) Rutted and/or rocky road. No shelves but rocks to 9". Water crossings usually less than hub deep. Passable mud. Grades moderate, up to 15 degrees. Side hill moderate up to 15 degrees. 4WD under most conditions. No width problems, vehicle passing spots frequently available if less than two vehicles wide.
5) Rutted and/or rocky road. No shelves. Rocks up to 12" and water crossings up to 12" with possible currents. Passable mud. Moderate grades to 15 degrees. 6" holes. Side hill to 20 degrees. 4WD required. No width problems.
6) Quite rocky or deep ruts. Rocks to 12" and frequent. Water crossings may exceed hub depth with strong currents. Shelves to 6". Mud may require checking before proceeding. Moderate grades to 20 degrees. Sidehill may approach 30 degrees. 4WD necessary and second attempts may be required with stock vehicles. Caution may be required with wider vehicles.
7) Rocks frequent and large, 12" and may exceed hub height. Holes frequent or deep (12"). Shelves to 9". Mud 8" deep and may be present on uphill sections. Grades to 25 degrees and sidehill to 30 degrees. Water crossings to 18" and may have strong currents. 1-1/2 vehicles wide. 4WD required. Driver experience helpful.
8) Heavy rock and/or severe ruts. Rocks exceeding hub height frequent. Shelves to 12". Deep mud or uphill mud sections. Steep grades to 25 degrees and can be loose or rocky. Water crossings may exceed 30" in depth. Side hill to 30 degrees. One vehicle wide. Body damage possible. Experience needed. Vehicle Modifications helpful.
9) Severe rock over 15". Frequent deep holes over 15". Shelves over 15". Mud bog conditions (long, deep, no form bottom). Over 30" water crossings with strong currents. Steep grades over 30 degrees. Sidehill over 30 degrees. May not be passable by stock vehicles. Experience essential. Body damage, mechanical breakdown, rollover probable. Extreme caution required.
10) Severe conditions. Extreme caution recommended. Impassable by stock vehicles. Winching required. Trail building necessary. May be impassable. Impassable under anything but ideal conditions. Vehicle damage probable. Personal injury possible. Extreme caution necessary.
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05) Required Equipment List
This list is based on my and other peoples experiences in the desert, it is by no means complete and just includes what i find to be indispensable when travelling any wilderness area.
Hi-Lift or Farm Style Jack
Repair and Tool Kit (see below)
Haynes Manual for Vehicle
CO2 or ABC Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher
Any Needed Medications
Minimum of 10 Gallons Water for Vehicle and Occupants
High Energy Snack Bars
Flashlight and New Sealed Batteries
Cellphone with Support for USA040 Network and/or CB Radio
Road Flares (for use on road, or for signalling)
Compass with Signal Mirror
Full Size Shovel
Your tool and repair kit should consist of a spare air filter, 4 quarts minimum of motor oil, 2 quarts minimum of power steering fluid (if applicable), 4 quarts minimum transmission and differential fluid, 2 gallons minimum coolant/antifreeze, 5 gallons minimum of gas, 4 spark plugs, 1 coil wire, 1 long spark plug wire, 20 foot spool of primary wire, 2 rolls electrical tape, 1 roll duct tape, 1 package of JB-Quikweld, 1 set of sockets or crescent wrenches, 1 wire cutter, 1 pair pliers, 2 large hose clamps, 2 small hose clamps, 2 feet of fuel hose and plastic splices, 2 feet of coolant hose and splices, multidriver/screwdriver with 6 bits, razor blades, fuses, tire puncture kit, fix-a-flat, small air compressor, 12-volt droplight.
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06) Recommended Equipment List
The following list is just extra stuff that is not essential, but I usually equip my vehicles with it if I am going to be out for a while in the desert.
Bottle of Electrolyte Tablets
Small Can of Instant Gatorade
Basic Multimeter with Voltage and Continuity Check
Flare Gun and Flares
2 Emergency / Solar Blankets for Each Vehicle Occupant
5 Pack of Disposable Lighters
Solar Battery Charger
Camelbak or Similar Backpack Water Bladder
GPS Unit
Roll of Toilet Paper
Micro Survival Kit (see below)
Sunscreen
DEET
The micro survival kit is one I have been working on for a while. It does not cover everything, but should help keep you alive long enough to find help. The micro survival kit is made from an altoids or camel casbah canister. It includes a wood cutting blade and a metal cutting blade for a jigsaw, a nut and bolt so you can attach the blade to the canister and use the canister as a handle, 1 non-lubricated condom for water storage and fire starting, 2 books of matches, 1 small ziplock bag with wax coated lint for tinder, 20 feet of 15lb test line, 5 fishing hooks, 1 candle, 4 band-aids, 1 trash bag, 2 flys (1 wet, 1 dry), small capsule of bleach, 3 rubber bands, copy of the edibility test chart, and is wrapped in 15 feet of 550 parachute line. You can use the inner surface of the tin as a reflector signal.
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07) Section Closing
I hope that this section is useful and at the very least has made you think. 90% of roads and terrain are limited by the driver, not the vehicle. I have taken a street bike off-road for 20 miles to reach a hill top, I have gotten a Fiat X-19 up a heavy washboard and onto a hill top, and currently I use only a Ford F-350 2wd and a Suzuki cruiser to get around my land, riverbeds, washouts, and just about everything else. With proper preparation and research, your trip to the Texas Deserts should be very enjoyable and fruitful, you just need to plan accordingly and make sure you have the necessary equipment for the situation.
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